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Hole in the Wall Restaurant, Sebastopol

Put some South in Your Mouf

Proud Cock by Hannah Rose MillerLeft: Rooster to the Rescue, by Hannah Rose

In writing about Sebastopol's newest contender for Best Restaurant, one must be careful to avoid collapsing into hyperbole.

To be sure, the Hole in the Wall Restaurant at 972 Gravenstein Hwy South does things it's supposed to do (like put out consistently excellent fare) but it's doing this way too soon.

Food bodhisattva, Elmer Dills, gave us many fine tips for eating in and reviewing restaurants in his 30-year career.

Two of these were to look at the restroom before sitting down to eat and to never write a review until the restaurant has been in business for at lease six months.

I ate at the Hole in the Wall only two months after they opened their doors based on some good advice from the lads at FFT antiques and was so impressed I wanted to tell the world about it.

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But I waited. For three months I sent friends there and stopped in two or three times myself to see if all was continuing well.

All was well.

A good friend, who was once the executive chef of the Waldorf Astoria, proclaimed their hamburger outstanding and adopted the Hole in the Wall as his favorite place to dine in Sebastopol.

My infrequent reconnaissance's there turned up nothing new. It was the same delicious experience time after time.

Unfortunately, Elmer was wrong in asking me to wait six months. Chef Owner Adam Beers has taken Gravenstein Hwy South by storm and everyone is finding out for themselves.

The small, 14-table establishment is putting out 100 or so plates for breakfast (200 on a recent Saturday) and the harmony wafting out of the place is only excelled by the aroma.

Chef Beers began cooking at the age of 14 in San Francisco and learned the ropes the hard way (as every good chef should). Most recently, he was the chef at... hell who cares? His breakfast is the best darn breakfast I've ever had!

There, I said it. My hyperbolic outburst just couldn't be stifled. Sorry.

Now Back to the Wall

Beers does everything so well it is hard to carve out one example to write about. But I will.

Biscuits and Sausage Gravy

A novelty of my existence is, I spent the majority of my youth in the South. I was weaned on large, fluffy biscuits covered in gravy heavy with sausage.

In that world, the words, "Sausage Gravy," sprang to my lips as easily as, "Da Da."

I am an expert on biscuits and sausage gravy. This could be said about anyone who has ever visited the South.

Twice I've ordered biscuits with sausage gravy at the Hole in the Wall. Each time I've tried to come to a decision on whether the biscuit or the gravy is the best part of the meal but it's impossible to choose.

Crispy and light, the biscuits remind me of my youth in Louisiana with one exception. Beers' biscuits are better.

And the gravy is not like anything I've ever had. It certainly is not the greasy, flour-flavored, heart-buster-sans-sausage slopped out by most establishments.

Beers' offering is a smooth sauce carefully spooned over large pieces of taste-friendly sausage sitting on top of light, crusty biscuit.

Open seven days a week and serving breakfast, lunch and dinner (check the hours for dinner), The Hole in the Wall restaurant is my pick for best restaurant in Sebastopol. And the restroom is always clean.

C'est Bon!

Hole in the Wall
972 Gravenstein Hwy South, Suite 100
Sebastopol, CA 95472
707-861-3777

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